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On October 11, Marine Thevenet, 35, made the first female ascent of Juneru in Albarracín, Spain, turning into the eighth lady on the earth to climb V15. Juneri was first climbed by Rubén Díaz Torres and has seen quite a lot of repeats, along with by longtime trad star James Pearson.
24-years after Fred Nicole climbed Dreamtimein Cresciano, Switzerland, V15 stays a haloed marker of problem. Ashima Shiraishi was the first lady to climb the grade when she made the second ascent of Dai Koyamada’s Horizonin Mount Hiei, Japan. Since then, solely Mishka Ishii, Caddy Lehmann, Jana ŠvecováBrooke Rabatou, Katie Lamb, Janja Garnbret, and—now—Marine Thevenet have climbed so laborious.
Thevenet found climbing on the age of 10, by Vertigo Membership in Beaujolais, France. She shortly took to the rivals scene, entering into her first Youth World Cup in 2004, at age 15, and persevering with on the circuit for the next 12 years. Although she began with a Lead background, Thevenet lastly began specializing in Boulder, which led to quite a lot of prime ten World Cup finishes, along with fifth place at Innsbruck in 2014.
By 2016, nonetheless, Thevenet found herself unable to pursue extreme diploma rivals whereas moreover attempting to foster a occupation as a contract lawyer. So she retired from competing and shifted her climbing focus to outside bouldering. “I prefer it,” Thevenet says. “I get to be with friends, and adjust to obvious strains outside.”
She had climbed her first 8A (V11) when she was 25, nevertheless after retiring from competitions, she set herself the target of ending 30 8A boulders by the purpose she turned thirty. Now 35, she’s climbed larger than 100 points 8A or extra sturdy. A number of of her “proudest” ascents embody iconic strains comparable to Dave Graham’s Scarred for Life (V12) and Nothin’ nevertheless Sunshine (V13). She climbed her first V14 in 2020 with an ascent of Magic Wood’s New Base Line and in 2022 repeated Bishop’s Compass North (V14).
That exact same 12 months, Thevenet, now residing in Annecy, France, started SweeMT: a sports activities actions firm dedicated to managing contracts with extreme athletes from all all around the world. Presently, SweeMT works with climbers, alpinists, cross nation skiers, and paragliders. No matter this workload, she’s continued to boost in her bouldering.
Visiting Albarracin remaining October, Thevenet climbed Misplaced in Silence (V13) and tried Juneru “by chance” as a no-commitment enterprise. She shocked herself by feeling good on the strikes, which motivated her to take a position some exact effort. That exact same journey, she had attempt by sticking the underside crux switch and taking a spectacular fall off the topout (embedded below). “I knew exactly what I needed to do to climb Juneruand I spent this September teaching notably for it,” Thevenet talked about. “I did quite a few lockoffs and muscular energy teaching to hold the positions between each switch.”
She spent her first two intervals of 2024 reacquainting herself with the strikes and climbing the tip of the difficulty utterly. As quickly as she had the best dialed, she began specializing in sticking the low crux correctly enough to carry on. And on her third session, she despatched the boulder. “Mentally, I had a easy time with Juneru,” Thevenet instructed Climbing. “Initially, I was a bit scared to return for it, nevertheless as quickly as I tried the boulder I let my motivation lead me to the best!”